How to Get Rid of Termites: What Works for Each Type

How you get rid of termites depends on which kind you have. Subterranean termites live in the soil and require soil barriers or baits, while drywood termites live inside wood and are treated in the wood or across the whole structure. In both cases a licensed company does the work, because a spray reaches only the termites it touches.

Which termites do you have?

Before you choose a treatment, you need to identify the insect behind the damage. Termites fall into distinct groups based on where they live, and a treatment that destroys one group will leave another completely untouched.

Mud tubes running up a concrete foundation or dirt packed into galleries, the tunnels termites hollow out inside timber, point directly to subterranean termites. Hard, six-sided pellets accumulated beneath tiny kick-out holes point to drywood termites.

If you are looking at insect evidence on your sill plate or drywall and feel uncertain, I built a guide to subterranean vs drywood termites to help you tell them apart. You can also run through my interactive termite scan to match what you found against known signs.

If you live in a coastal or southern region, you might hear a technician mention Formosan termites. Formosan termites are a subterranean termite, and companies treat them through the soil in the same way as other subterranean species.

What gets rid of each kind of termite?

Matching the treatment method to the specific termite group is the only way to reach the nest.

Termite group	Where the colony lives	What reaches it	What does not
Subterranean termites	UC IPM notes the reproductives and most of the colony live in nests near or below ground level.	A liquid soil treatment or a bait system applied by a licensed company.	UC IPM states that fumigation, heat treatment, freezing, and electrocution devices cannot control subterranean termites in structures, because the nest is out of their reach.
Drywood termites	Inside the wood structure itself.	A local treatment of the infested wood when the colony is small and found, or treating the whole structure by fumigation or heat.	A liquid soil treatment or a ground bait station, because the colony is not in the soil.

If you want to review every chemical and non-chemical option across both groups side by side, I cover the entire lineup in my termite treatment hub.

Can I get rid of termites myself?

A store-bought product is unlikely to get rid of a termite colony.

UC IPM states that do-it-yourself pesticides for termites are generally not effective. For readers in California, UC IPM notes that there are no reliable over-the-counter termite control products available for the public at all, as all effective products are restricted to professional use.

The National Pesticide Information Center notes that some pest situations are too complex or extensive for do-it-yourself control, particularly termites.

NC State Extension describes one termite bait sold in retail stores. Its label states “Not recommended as sole protection against termites, & for active infestations, get a professional inspection.”

An off-the-shelf spray kills only the insects it touches directly. Because the main colony stays protected underground or deep inside timber, spraying a visible swarmer or a mud tube kills the termites you can see, and the colony carries on.

If you want to read what retail labels actually permit, see my breakdown of termite sprays. I also have a guide addressing popular home remedies like orange oil, borates, and vinegar.

Instead of applying store-bought sprays, there are three practical steps you can take right now:

• Photograph the insects, mud tubes, or drop zones clearly with your phone.
• Leave mud tubes and pellet piles intact so an inspector can verify active entry points.
• Review my prevention guide to fix moisture leaks and wood-to-soil contact around your foundation.

How do professionals get rid of subterranean termites?

Professionals rely on two main strategies for subterranean colonies: liquid soil barriers and underground baiting systems.

For liquid barrier applications, University of Kentucky Extension notes that all liquid termiticides are supposed to control termites for at least five years when applied according to label directions. However, Kentucky also notes that even the best treatments can fail when termites find untreated gaps in the soil, because establishing a continuous, impenetrable chemical barrier is hard to achieve in practice. If you want to see how technicians trench and rod around a foundation, check out my page on liquid termite treatment service.

For baiting approaches, Kentucky Extension explains that baits are relatively slow-acting compared to liquids, taking weeks or months before termites locate the underground stations and share the active ingredient with the nest. UC IPM adds that bait systems can take several months or even years to control the problem and require constant monitoring. You can learn more about station placement on my bait systems service page.

NC State Extension points out that because liquid soil treatments and baiting systems work so differently, comparing which method works better is difficult. NC State emphasizes that no chemical termite treatment, whether liquid or bait, is 100 percent effective every time.

Choosing between these options usually comes down to your timeline. Kentucky Extension notes that homeowners with a severe infestation or those involved in a real estate transaction may not want to wait for baits to take effect, and may prefer a liquid, alone or with baits. I break down this comparison in detail in my bait vs liquid guide.

How do professionals get rid of drywood termites?

To clear drywood termites, professional operators use either whole-structure treatments or localized spot applications inside specific timbers.

California’s Structural Pest Control Board states that fumigation and heating of the entire house are the only options that ensure eradication in the entire structure. The Board notes that local or spot control may be effective if the infestation is contained in a small area, but hidden infestations elsewhere in the structure will not be eradicated. Furthermore, California’s regulator warns that any pest control company claiming whole-house results with local or spot control methods is guilty of false advertising.

UC IPM notes that when a technician correctly locates the colony and gets the treatment directly onto the termites, local control is highly effective. However, UC IPM also stresses that finding the true extent of a drywood infestation requires experience and is best done by a professional.

If you opt for tenting, Texas A&M Extension points out that tent fumigation gives no residual protection against re-infestation.

The University of Arizona Extension notes that drywood termite colonies often develop slowly, so the cost of some control measures may not be warranted. It adds that a homeowner who chooses not to treat should keep a monitoring program going.

To weigh your options for drywood colonies, explore my guides on tenting vs spot treatment and heat vs fumigation. You can also read dedicated overviews for fumigation service and spot treatment service.

How long does it take to get rid of termites?

How long it takes depends on the method.

Baiting systems take the longest. Kentucky Extension notes that the elimination process using baits can take several months or longer to complete, during which time some ongoing feeding and damage may occur before the active ingredient takes full effect.

A liquid soil treatment and a fumigation each finish in a set number of days.

After a drywood treatment is finished, Texas A&M Extension advises removing all existing signs of infestation, such as pellet accumulations, at the time of service. You should then watch the area for swarming or fresh pellets for several months to check that the treatment worked.

How do I keep termites from coming back?

Keeping termites away takes a yearly inspection and a service agreement that stays in force.

Kentucky Extension states that most warranties stipulate the company will return and retreat affected areas at no extra charge, provided you maintain the annual renewal fee. Kentucky highlights that buying any termite treatment without an ongoing service agreement is a bit of a gamble. Kentucky also notes that most reputable firms will not warrant spot treatments, since termites are likely to find other ways into the structure in time.

A historical soil application does not grant permanent immunity. NC State Extension explains that while liquid termiticides are expected to remain effective in soil for at least five years, this does not guarantee termites will not invade during that period, making an annual inspection the only way to maintain protection.

NC State also notes that annual contract renewals for baiting systems likely cost two to four times more than renewals for liquid treatments, because technicians must check bait stations annually or up to four times per year, whereas a house with a liquid treatment is inspected once a year.

UC IPM recommends scheduling professional inspections every 3 to 5 years to detect new infestations before they become damaging. When choosing a service, Kentucky Extension advises homeowners to weigh both the initial treatment cost and the recurring annual renewal fee.

To evaluate warranty coverage terms, review my guide on repair bonds vs retreat-only contracts. If you hold a company’s bid for a liquid treatment, my cost calculator checks the gallons of termiticide your foundation needs.

Who should do the work?

The US Environmental Protection Agency states that firms offering termite services must be licensed by your state. The EPA recommends asking to see a company’s license and calling your state pesticide regulatory agency if you have any concerns about an operator.

Before signing a contract, read my checklist on how to vet a pest control company to check a company’s state licence. When you are ready to move forward, you can use my get help page to describe the problem and be put in touch with companies that treat termites.

What I would do if I found termites in my home

I have not seen your house, but if I found mud tubes or termite pellets on my own sill plate tomorrow, here is how I would navigate the process:

First, I would figure out which termite group I was dealing with before spending a single dollar. A drywood colony requires an entirely different set of tools than a subterranean nest, and misidentifying the pest is how homeowners end up paying for liquid soil barriers that do nothing.

Second, I would leave the evidence alone. I would take clear photos of the swarmers, mud tubes, or pellet piles, but I would not break open the tubes or spray retail pesticide over the area. A technician needs to see those intact entry points to determine where the insects are entering the structure.

Third, I would get thorough inspections from two licensed pest control companies. I would insist that both operators quote on the exact same treatment method so I could compare their pricing, chemical choices, and drilling plans line by line.

Finally, I would budget for the annual contract renewal fee and keep it active. The renewal pays for the yearly inspection, and most companies retreat at no extra charge under it if termites return. When you are ready for quotes, the get help page in the section above is the place to start.

Sources

• Pest Notes: Subterranean and Other Termites (Publication 7415) — UC Statewide IPM Program, 2014-05. Accessed 2026-10-12.
• Pesticide Home Remedies — National Pesticide Information Center, Oregon State University, undated. Accessed 2026-10-12.
• Termites — Baiting Systems — NC State Extension — Michael Waldvogel, Patricia Alder and Christopher Hayes, 2020-04-13. Accessed 2026-10-12.
• Termite Control: Answers for Homeowners (ENTFACT-604) — University of Kentucky Department of Entomology — Michael F. Potter, 2026-03. Accessed 2026-10-12.
• Termite Baits: A Guide for Homeowners (ENTFACT-639) — University of Kentucky Department of Entomology — Michael F. Potter, 2026-03. Accessed 2026-10-12.
• Structural Pest Control Fact Sheet: Exterminating Termites — California Structural Pest Control Board, 1998-07. Accessed 2026-10-12.
• Drywood Termites (E-366) — Texas Cooperative Extension — Roger E. Gold, Harry N. Howell Jr., Grady J. Glenn and Kimberly M. Brown, 2005-12. Accessed 2026-10-12.
• Pest Notes: Drywood Termites (Publication 7440) — UC Statewide IPM Program, 2014. Accessed 2026-10-12.
• Drywood Termites (AZ1232) — University of Arizona Cooperative Extension — Dawn H. Gouge, Carl Olson, Paul Baker, 2009-05. Accessed 2026-10-12.
• Termites: How to Identify and Control Them — US Environmental Protection Agency, 2025-10-21. Accessed 2026-10-12.